Fishing Deep Structure Part 1, 2, 3 and 4

I promised to write something on bluewater fishing deep structure. Now I have started it, I think I’m going to have to split it into parts. There may be a book in the making here! I intend to illustrate these articles with real shots of on board electronics and fishing conditions, but I don’t yet have all the shots I need. Watch this space!

If you think of anything I missed, or you have questions, ask me on the thread and I will try to answer. There is no right and wrong way to fish. This is just my way.

Fishing deep structure

Whether you fish from your own boat, or from someone else?s, or you charter a vessel to fish from, a quality colour depth sounder and a GPS with a plotter function that can mark waypoints with various symbols and record your track in graphical form are two essential tools which I would not want to fish without. Modern electronics are fantastic aids to fishing, helping find structure that holds fish, helping you see and identify what fish may be there and helping you choose the best methods to target the fish you see. These same electronics will help you get back to the same spot, time after time with pinpoint accuracy. What you see there each trip may be quite different from what you saw last time and your electronics will again help you interpret how best to fish in changing conditions.

Your sounder and GPS combination will also have additional features such as speed and water temperature that can help you. Used in combination with your eyes, nose and some degree of imagination and thought, you have a deadly combination of fish finding tools at your disposal.

Here?s how I use my electronics in combination with sharp eyes to recognize fishing opportunity over structure and how I go about fishing the structure given the interpretation of what I?m looking at.

Part 1: Finding structure

Hard Structure

You may have been given co-ordinates to a good piece of hard bottom structure by someone else who has been there, you may have seen an interesting piece of structure on a map and decide it?s worth investigating or you may just stumble across structure while you are trolling or traveling from one place to another. The first two situations involve plugging in the co-ordinates into your GPS and simply going to those co-ordinates.

The last situation is why I always have my depth sounder switched on when I?m cruising from one spot to another. I may pick up a bottom feature that I have not seen before. It may or may not have fish on it, but I mark it. The structure may be bigger than you expect and it may actually hold lots of fish when you take the time to investigate. Once marked with a single waypoint, I can now drive to that spot and find it anytime I feel like.

In shallower areas or when you?re fishing the shelf, you?ll be looking for hard structure much of the time. These are obvious features that stick up from the seabed and are easy to find with a depth sounder. We?ll deal with mapping them out and fishing these structures a bit later.

Soft Structure

In deep water or off the shelf edge, there is lots and lots of empty water. It can be quite disheartening to fish miles and miles of water that all looks the same. You need something on which to focus your fishing efforts. You are looking for differences, edges and areas where currents might be deflected that are often difficult to pinpoint, so don?t forget the visual clues that can lead to both fish and structure. Good fishermen are constantly scanning the water. Birds working are a good indicator of fish, as are the splashes of feeding fish, but there are other clues. Flying fish and dolphins can often lead you to fish. Spinner dolphins are a small species of dolphin quite common in Ujung Kulon. They travel in family groups or huge pods, sometimes with hundreds of individuals. They can be spotted from long distances because of their habit of jumping and spinning. They are commonly found traveling with schools of tuna, most often Yellowfin Tuna.

How to interpret their behaviour and that of the birds that are usually with them to help you locate the tuna is a different subject, but we?re interested in these clues if you notice that on successive trips, the activity is always around the same spot. This can also lead you to structure.

Other, more subtle indicators of structure or fish can be tide lines with floating debris along a current edge. This may be associated with a colour change from green water to blue or maybe just a very subtle change in shade. This is structure, just as much as a reef on the bottom. Soft structure can be as productive as hard structure. If you cross the line and there is a change in temperature from one side to the other, it?s worth fishing. A temperature change of half a degree is worth fishing. If it?s a few degrees, you might be in for a good session, depending upon where it lies. Your depth sounder will probably have a temperature chart feature where you can plot up temperature along your track. Use it. Get into the habit of checking it from time to time. If you identify a temperature break, you?ll want the temperature plot up on a split screen to use with the sounder or the GPS track plotter function. These features are often transient and temporary. Fish them. Where they occur over hard bottom structure, they are particularly interesting. When they lie over deep underwater drop-offs or canyons, reefs and rocky bottom they are your invisible indicator to concentrations of pelagic fish.

Another indicator of deep structure is different looking water. It may be a patch of water that ripples in a slightly different way or is smooth or swirls or any number of subtle little differences. It may stand out by being much rougher than the nearby water, like a tide rip. Commonly, where there is bait in the water under the surface causing it to ripple, it?s often referred to as ?nervous water?, but I think this is a perfect description for the visual clues of deep underwater structure you are looking for.

The actual bottom structure that causes these effects in the water may be some distance away from where they are visible on the surface. It may take a determined search to actually find the hard structure. The deeper the water, the further away it might be. In deep water, you?ll be trolling the upper disturbed layers anyway, not the bottom feature causing them. The disturbed area may not always be down current, although you will see some disturbance on this side when the features are shallow. In fact, in deeper water, along drop-offs, the current creates a pressure wave on the up current side of the structure and its this pressure wave and associated upwelling where we will find most of our fish.

In Ujung Kulon, the ocean current often runs parallel to the drop-off and there is no upwelling to create soft structure worth fishing. But where the drop-off is bisected by deep canyons that cut back into the shelf, the current might get deflected here in a very small area. The water might be 600ft or 1000ft deep, but the waters surface has a different appearance. The area may be very small in a huge ocean, but these spots are very important to recognize.

I?ll give you an example of how important this can be. I fished a week aboard Tim Dean?s 40ft Black Watch Calypso with Captain Steve Tedesco on the GBR out of Cairns one October a few years back. It was the height of an excellent heavy tackle Black Marlin season. Boats were scattered up and down the reef for over a hundred miles, but the bulk of the fish were taken in very small areas each day. I asked Steve about this as we trolled north from Cairns and he told me the current was running parallel to the reef and had been for several weeks. I knew immediately what he was looking for and pinpointed some areas on his GPS map chart and asked if this was where the fish had been caught. These were areas where I could see the reef turned slightly and gave the correct geometry to deflect the current and cause upwelling. To cut a long story short, we spent the bulk of the charter fishing one of these curves on the reef, an area not much bigger than a football field out of a hundred miles of possible fishing spots. Results were excellent and I could see the difference in this patch of water we fished compared to the rest of the reef. Some boats outside this small area caught little or nothing. Boats that got inside it were getting fish.

Mark these spots on your GPS for future reference. You may not at first realize why the area is different but as you become more familiar with the area, currents and structure, it will start to add up to a predictable pattern.

If you look at a map of Ujung Kulon on the SW tip of Java, the Indian Ocean meets the Java Strait right at Ujung Kulon and currents usually flow from north to south in the straits. Warm water at 82 degrees F from the shallow Java Sea pours into the Indian Ocean at 2 knots and creates a temperature break, tide rip and often a colour change. Depending upon the season, the Indian Ocean may be at 78 to 80 degrees F creating a 4 to 6 degree temperature break that is like a brick wall to a baitfish. The associated tide rip runs out to sea, perpendicular to the coast at Ujung Kulon, so you can troll the tide rip and temperature break from shallow to deep, over the drop-off and back again. The break is quite visible when you know what to look for. It will be a band of rough water with much larger waves than the surrounding sea, and this corridor may be 100 yards wide. The Indian Ocean will be blue and the water from the Sunda Strait will be slightly greener. Your temperature plot will show you the break. I have seen boats avoid this tide rip and fish around it, because the surrounding water is much calmer!

When conditions are good, it?s time to get out the skirted lures and set out a pattern for Marlin. I can almost guarantee there will be feeding Marlin under those conditions and we?ve tagged and released triples in an hour with double headers not unknown. You?ll also encounter Sailfish, Wahoo, Yellowfin Tuna, Barracuda and Mahi Mahi hunting the same water. Given that we frequently see Marlin tailing down the swells in these conditions, it can be an adrenaline charged experience. The productive band of water may be no more than 100 yards wide and 1 mile out and back across the drop-off. Use your track plotter set on 3 mile range to monitor the ground you cover and take note of the water depth you get your strikes. The fish will always be traveling down sea, parallel to the shoreline and will usually be in the same depth band, either on the shelf, at the edge or sometimes in the deeper water. The tide rip will be perpendicular to the direction the fish are traveling in, which is perfect because by staying in the rip, you?ll cross the path of many more fish as you?ll be trolling across their track.

Similar conditions may exist many miles out to sea at the mouths of big rivers and these areas are often rich in bait. These areas are particularly attractive to Sailfish.

Something else you may notice if you are alert is the smell of fish. I don?t mean like fish cooking in the kitchen at home, but I mean a distinct watermelon smell on the water. This is often associated with schools of baitfish or tuna. Oily slicks and a fish oil smell might mean feeding fish. Something has killed and eaten something else in this patch of water and you can smell it. When people say the skipper can smell fish, they may actually be right. He can!

The important thing here is, if it looks different, fish it. Mark it on the GPS for reference. In a new area, mark everything. Once you get familiar with an area, you?ll learn to recognize what?s important and what isn?t. This will help on return visits, but it will also help on one off trips because you?ll be fishing more selective areas and not just fishing blind. Concentrating your efforts where the fish are, or are likely to be, will always yield better results, often very much better results, so pay attention while you are trolling!

Part 2: Mapping structure and building a mental 3D picture

Part 3: Finding the fish on structure

Part 4: Interpreting fish and their behaviour from your sounder

Part 5: Trolling structure

Part 6: Jigging structure

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U’re da man Rob. Hmm.. how I wish my boatman can read English. I will try to translate and ask him to read later. Can’t wait for the next part.

saltiga z30,65lbs PowerPro, Calstar GF700M

This actually looks better than I thought it would. Don’t think of this as Ujung Kulon. Look at this shot and try to translate it to somewhere you know and fish. It’s the geometry thats are important, not the place.

Water is pouring out of the Sunda Strait and hitting the Indian Ocean which is to the SW. In the dry season, winds are south easterly so the fish migrating along the coast of Java in the Indian Ocean will be moving with the prevailing current, headed north. They work their way along the dropoff and collide with the water coming out of the Sunda Straits, which creates a perfect feeding ground for them to refuel!

In the wet, winds are from the west, so the system breaks down and you don’t get a tide rip. It just gets rough everywhere! You have to look elsewhere when the prevailing current changes.

Bwan, ma’af, saya hanya bisa bahasa Indonesia. Kalau ada waktu, saya bisa coba tulis dalam bahasa, tapi saya kira akan lamah sekali sebelum selasai!

You don’t have to do that Rob. It’s more than enough for us. We’ll figure out ourself how to make use of it. BTW, your bahasa not bad too. Bahasa Melayu and Indon not much different but I guess if you write in Indon it will be more difficult for us to read through.[:D]

saltiga z30,65lbs PowerPro, Calstar GF700M

marlin,

my utter gratitude to you!! thanks…

Working on part 2 and 3 right now, but weekends are for fishing, not writing about fishing! The next two parts will be more about hard structure which may be of more interest to guys who don’t have access to deep canyons and dropoffs. I don’t do much bottom fishing, although we do a bit at times, but the techniques used can be very useful if you intend to anchor as well. I’m not sure how well equipped the boats are that most of the forum readers here use, but I have a handheld magellan GPS that has most of the features of my big unit on Arimbi including charts and a track function. I also have a portable Hummingbird B/W sounder that I strap to my float ring. When I’m fishing ponds around KL, I’m not exactly looking for tide rips and canyons, but I can plot bottom features and use my GPS in the same way described above. I have not had chance to explore Rompin for Sailfish yet, nor visit Miri for some deep jigging, but I’ll try and keep the write-ups generic so the techniques can be applied anywhere.

Marlin,

I concur that fish tends to hold upcurrent of a structure.

Some Australian diver from the MV Empress have dived a WWII Japanese
wreck here named KUMA, but locally (and mistakenly) known as the “Russian
Wreck”. They told me most of the fish tends to hold at the upcurrent
and down current of the wreck and little to the sides.

The stronger the current, the more concentrated the fishes.
During dead current, the fish will disburse and move further up
the structure.

That’s why we normally avoid doing deep bottom during dead
current, but rather choose a good current. Too strong a current
is still fishable, but then not many have the heart to do
fishing using upto 2.5kg of sinkers.

Keep up the good work!

Cheers

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Petestop, Good feedback. I’m going to cover locating fish on structure in a follow on. Wrecks are just another form of hard structure and fish will orient on them in the same way. Unlike hard natural structure which is usually asymmetrical, wrecks are both regular shapes and also usually small in comparison. My next piece, almost ready, covers the features of a structure which are important to locating the fish holding there.

Fish do change both their location and their behaviour with changing current, often very quickly. Also boats have to account for tide and wind, which can effect how you fish any given structure. You are correct about tide changes and current changes. I have fished structures where the fish simply disappear completely. One minute highly productive with fish everywhere, the next, nothing.

I’ll tell you about my bait fishing experiences in 1000ft of water someday. Full harness just to wind up the weight, even if there’s no fish on there!

Wow, 1000ft is like 300+ meters. Most reels won’t even carry that capacity.
I wonder what kind of species you get at such depth ?

Most of our bottom fishing here is done between 40m ~ 100m.

Multiply the drag of the current on the mainline and the sinkers you need
just touch bottom, I can imagine it will be backbreaking just to “check bait”.
Not to mention dropping the bait will probably take couple of minutes.

But then again, electric reels are very popular here in Malaysia,
brands like Daiwa, Command, Ryobi, so I guess should make easy work
at such depth.

Great writeup, although techniques like trolling is relatively unexplored
here in Malaysia. Most of the time, we simply pull an artificial lure
around and hope for the best.

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quote:
Originally posted by Marlin I'll tell you about my bait fishing experiences in 1000ft of water someday. Full harness just to wind up the weight, even if there's no fish on there!

Hi Rob,

Just to share some of my past experience on deep water
fishing in the CELEBES SEAS & SPRATLYS at those deep
trenches of 2000 to 3000 fathoms (12,000 to 18,000ft).
Our targets were the yellow fin tunas and big eye tunas,
we had to reach thier feeding dept of 150 to 200 fathoms
(900 to 1,200ft deep)
We used baits of fresh bonitos and round scads lip hooked
with 10/o or 12/o southern tuna hooks tied to 200 lb clear
mono wind on leader. We had to weigh it down with 3kg
releasable weight, the hook up would release the weight
and we fought the fish free line. We used lap and bucket
harness and fought the fish on stand up basis, no fighting
chair. Those tunas were from 60 to 100 kg, would take about
one to two hour to land them with TIAGRA OR PENN INT. 80.

Fish tight…fish right!!! Thomas

Thomas, that’s the type of fishing I can relate to! One on one stand-up combat. I fished Broadbill Swordfish in a similar way in Kenya with drop-off weights, but the majority of their Broadbills are now taken by trolling at night with skirted lures. This may be a technique that also works with tuna when they rise in the water to feed at night. I have taken big dogtooth trolling at night over the same structure we were jigging down to 300ft to catch them during the day. Believe it or not, I actually got a cast off to a Broadbill Swordfish one night on a fly rod having teased the fish up with a squid. Didn’t get him though. Check out the IGFA records on Broadbill on fly. I think they did manage to get one in the end, out of Malindi or Watamu in Kenya.

Petestop, I don’t want to give away too many clues about my age, but we used ordinary Shimano game reels with mono line, usually 50lb outfits. Electric reels were just starting to appear I think, but we had no superbraid lines. With mono, you can’t feel a bite at that depth, so you rely on the fish hooking itself. The weight takes quite a few minutes to get to the bottom and quite a bit longer to bring it back up again. You can feel it sometimes if you hook a big one! Most of the time, the fish were grouper and snapper to about 50lb. The fish would fight for the first bit, but as it blew up higher in the water column, the fish would actually pop to the surface in a great mass of bubbles. Everything obviously went in the fish box, but the method was self regulating in that I never saw an angler make more than 2 or three drops before they didn’t want to do it any more.

Now with modern gear and superbraid lines, we regularly jig in water up to 1000ft deep with 50lb outfits and 300 to 500 gm jigs. Ruby Snapper are found at these depths. Obviously, the method still takes it’s toll on anglers, modern gear or not.

Guys… I think I’m out of your league… [;)]

To us, fishing the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia, a 6.5kg snapper
is considered big fish… ha…ha…

We do get the occasional 40kg+ sailfish here, but it is not a target
species here.

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Petestop, nice fish! A big fish is always relative to the area and the tackle you use. The grouper were up to 50lbs, the snapper were smaller!

These Coronation Trout attacked jigs as big as themselves in 250ft of water. Unfortunately tough to release since they blow up.

Part 1: Finding structure

Part 2: Mapping structure and building a mental 3D picture

If you have a good map or chart, structure will be marked on it. You’ll already have a pretty good idea of what to expect at these locations and may even have high graded some spots based on your knowledge of winds and tides in the area. But invariably, your chart isn’t detailed enough and it certainly doesn’t have the location of fish marked on it.

Once you have found a structure or arrived at your waypoint, you’ll want to get fishing as soon as you can, but some idea of what the structure looks like and how it lies in the water will be a great help. Not all the structures in an area will hold fish and those that do have some fish on them don’t hold fish everywhere on the structure. Once you start to create a mental map of the structure, it’s easier to predict where fish will be.

To begin with, you have one mark on the GPS. You need to take a look at the surrounding area to build up your picture. Unless you have side-scanning sonar, you’ll need to move around a bit to do this. So go ahead and troll. Turn on your track plotter if you have not already done so and set it’s scale to something appropriate, say 1.5 miles or smaller. I prefer trolling diving lures like Rapala’s for investigating hard structure, since the slower speed allows you to be a bit more thorough. Deep structure on the shelf, in water less than 300ft deep usually holds Tenggiri, Barracuda and GT’s, so Rapala’s will work well enough for starters.

Don’t just troll around hoping you’ll connect to some fish while exploring. When you first get to the place and confirm your mark, you want to set up a trolling pattern that allows you to troll over your structure trolling with the wind / current. Fish will by lying ahead of the structure on the up current / up wind side, expecting the current to bring their food to them. You’ll catch many more fish trolling with the current and with the sea than against it. Rarely will the current and the wind be from exactly the same direction, but hopefully you don’t have a wind on tide situation and you can at least quarter the seas, to get the correct direction to troll in.

Now you know what direction you want to troll over the structure, start crossing it in a different place each time, a bit left or a bit right of your previous track. Hopefully, you’ll pick up a few fish while you are doing this. I’ll be looking to put some more marks on the GPS to help me fish it later. No structure is ever symmetrical, so I want to find the ends of the structure and note where the sides are. I want to find the highest point on the structure and it’s depth. Does the structure have just one crest or a number of crests along its length? Which is the highest one? Is it flat on the top like a table, or is sharp and pointed? Does it have a steep side and a less steep side? Is the bottom hard or soft? Does the structure lie broadside on to the current or is it elongated in the direction of the current? Does it have deeper water on one side than the other? Are there any other structures near it? Are they bigger or smaller than this one?

What you are doing is building “slices” through the structure each time you cross it, just like the slices of a loaf of bread. Most sounders these days offer duel frequency to cover more water depth than a single frequency can. Lower frequency penetrates better but has less resolution. In water less than 300ft, use the 200khz frequency for greater resolution. In deep water, you’ll need the 50khz setting. The 200khz setting will have a narrow beam, while the 50khz has quite a large footprint, especially at depth. Set your sounder on a fixed depth range that’s a bit deeper than the surrounding water. Do not have it on auto depth range. Set on auto depth, it jumps around as it changes scale and redraws, which is very distracting. Secondly, if the scale keeps changing, it makes it harder to visualize the high bits and the low bits on the structure because you’ll need to read the depth scale for the bit you’re looking at to see if it’s actually bigger than the last pass. Setting a fixed depth removes these variables and allows you to see the structure on the same scale each time you cross it. Similarly, set the gain manually. If you use auto gain, you won’t get a good idea of where the good returns are coming from and where the returns are soft.

How much gain do you need? Too much and you’ll get lots of noise. Too little and you’ll miss features. Increase the gain until you see noise, or graininess in the picture. Turn it down a bit from this setting until the noise just about disappears. You can also increase the gain while looking for the first bottom multiple. If anyone wants me to explain that last bit, it’s a bit technical, so unless someone asks, we’ll leave it out for now.

On colour sounders, you can also adjust the colour gain to get an idea of what’s hard and what’s soft and display these as separate colours. How does the sounder do this? The information needed is contained in the sound return or “ping” as it bounces back from the seabed. Imagine a golf ball bouncing on marble tiles. It makes a very sharp, hard sound. Now imagine the sound of a golf ball bouncing on wood. Different sound? That difference is processed by the sounder software to show up as different colours on the screen. Red is hard, blue is soft. You’ll need to play around with this feature until you get a good picture since it does vary. This also works on fish. Remember our spinner dolphin with the tuna? Dolphin have lungs. This sets up a nice contrast with the density of the surrounding water and you get a “hard” blip that shows up red on the sounder. The tuna don’t have a swim bladder and the density contrast with water is smaller, resulting in a softer colour, green or blue. You can easily see and distinguish dolphin from tuna on the sounder.

Small structures can be mapped in just a few passes. Larger structures may take a few visits to gain a comprehensive picture. Try to visualize the structure in 3 dimensions as you troll over it. It’s not always easy to convert the picture you see into 3D space, which is why you need both sounder and track plotter. For instance, if you are trolling a straight shelf edge, you will zig-zag out and back across the drop off. On the zigs, you see the bottom coming up, on the zags, you see the bottom drop away, but if you mark the feature each time you cross it, you’ll see your marks join up in a straight line.

Make a note of where you see fish or “funny water” while you map your structure. Where are the fish in relation to the both the structure and the current? Is there any variation in water temperature as you cross the structure? Anything that might indicate the current is being deflected? We’ve already started, but in part 3 we’ll put these pieces together to find the fish. This will help you to predict where to look and be able to catch fish under different conditions of current and wind.

Part 3: Finding the fish on structure

Part 4: Interpreting fish and their behaviour from your sounder

Part 5: Trolling structure

Part 6: Jigging structure

The black star is my starting waypoint, which someone might have given me. When I approach the mark, I’m already lining up the trolling path with wind and tide, even though I don’t know anything else about the structure. The black arrow shows my first pass. We’re trolling with a view to mapping our structure, so I’m not yet optimising my trolling pattern nor tailoring it to what I see on the sounder. That comes later.

I’ll make multiple passes, all with the current and I’ll try and mark the structure where it’s steep (red stars on the left upper side), and I’ll also try and mark the ends and sides (red starts at the top and bottom and right of the structure). I also note the highest point I can find and mark that too.

I might make 5 or 6 passes before I build up a picture of how the structure lies in relation to wind and current. In the example, we have it easy - wind is quartering with the current so it’s unlikely to be rough, even over the pressure wave where the fish are and I mark good concentrations of fish orienting on the crest of the structure which lies at the northwestern end of the whole structure directly facing the current. I might make a pass down the length of the structure, just to confirm the picture, and this would be from north to south in our example.

Don’t forget to note the relative depths of the surrounding water and make some wider passes over the area looking for other structures.

Part 1: Finding structure

Part 2: Mapping structure and building a mental 3D picture

Part 3: Finding the fish on structure

Attached is a schematic of what you might see on your sounder as you cross a structure. I’ll add some real sounder shots as soon as I can.

Current is from the left and I’ve marked areas where there are fish. The outermost fish are often rainbow runners, smaller tuna or other bait fish and they tend to roam a bit. They can be found sometimes some distance from the structure, but will be orienting on it and will always return to the general area. The second group of fish are stacked on the upwelling or pressure wave on the highest part of the structure. These will be GT’s, Bigeye Jack, Barracuda or other middle sized fish which tend to group. The big arches are the predators. These will be fish such as Marlin, Sailfish, Wahoo, Tenggiri, larger GT’s, Dogtooth Tuna, Mahi Mahi and deeper down, Grouper, Coral Trout and other “ground” fish.

The pelagics will tend to wander around with the bait, only indirectly orienting with the structure. The rest will be closely associated with the structure at various depths.

Birds feeding and ruffled water are good signs that fish are present, as are dolphins, flying fish and signs of fish feeding, like tenggiri flying out of the water every so often as they snatch a rainbow runner from near the surface.

When birds are working bait being driven to the surface by tuna or other fish, they will be close to the waters surface when the bait is shallow and fly higher as the bait drops deeper, a mirror image of what’s going on beneath the surface. The type of birds will also clue you in on what the birds are feeding on. Terns will be feeding on whitebait, very small bait fish. Diving birds and other types of gulls will be feeding on larger bait. Frigate birds are often associated with billfish, but they will chase flying fish, scooping them from the air as they try and escape from the fish underneath them.

Part 4: Interpreting fish and their behaviour from your sounder

Part 5: Trolling structure

Part 6: Jigging structure

Hi Rob,

Thanks once again, that is very good illustration,
I am sure many sea anglers will now understand better,
this is also applicable to all FADs (man made FISH
AGGREGATION DEVICE). The underwater structure is a giant
FAD. Perhaps you can also add a little indication where
to anchor the boat if anglers want to do bottom fishing
at this structure, thanking you in advance, cheers!!

Fish tight…fish right!!! Thomas

Thomas, good suggestion. I’ll sure do that. Anchoring on structure is a great skill and makes a huge difference to results. I can see many readers do more bottom fishing than trolling, but much of this thread is applicable to bottom fishing too. I’ll slip in an anchoring/bottom fishing section somewhere.

Here’s a quick illustration to show the difference current direction in relation to structure can make. Here’s the same structure with current from different quarters. The structure has a high point shown by the red star and it’s steepest side is the north west side.

Clockwise from top left,

  1. Current hitting steep and high side of structure, lots of fish
  2. Current hitting high end of structure from head on, fewer fish, very concentrated.
  3. Current hitting structure on the less steep side but still broadside on, fewer fish than if the current was hitting the steep side, but still good.
  4. Finally, current hitting bottom end of structure, well away from the high point, may have no fish at all holding on the structure.

This is a simplification, but you’ll get the point. Not all structure holds fish, all the time.