I have just carved out this lure but don’t really know where to put the weights. Must I add ball bearings inside?? Should I wire through or just use eyelet??
quincy,
regarding the weighting, it’s all depends on what type of floating position you want. the further back, the more vertical position u hv [:)].
normally i’ll insert a wire through the ball sinker and attatch it to my lure, put it into the water then slowly adjust the weight position. mark it down when found the position i want. let the lure fully dry then only carve out the weight chamber.
Oic, yeapwl thx very much. I took the storm thunderdog lure as my sample to follow but later I carefully look, dont have any weight one like use the ball bearings only.
FR is right. look at a transparent pencil bait to get a rough estimate of the weighting position. then with all the hook hangars and hardwares attached, try to make the pencilbait float at 180 deg, 90 deg or 45 deg…each degree will have a slightly different action.
FR, I use the storm thunderdog lure which is transparent to see how it is made. But the problem is, it does not have any lead weights but ball bearing rattler only. Btw is there any other metal more heavy then lead?? There is simly no space for me to put any more weights, so how ar??
Lets see what I can add to this. But take it with a pinch of salt and do ur own experiments, a lot of the things I point out will interact with each other and hence u have to combine all these info to work on ur lure design.
Surface walk the dog lures are a basically lures without lip and the fisherman needs to impart the action by playing it so it will swing or slide from right to left in a rhythm. The most basic type will be Heddon Zara Spook. Now if u look at the Zara Spook it’s just bacically a round straight cylinder with tapered ends. Simple.
So from a lure making point of view when making a stick bait, the most improtant criteria is to get the angle right (angle that it floats in the water at rest). The more severe angles will make the lure walk in tighter swings and lesser angle less swing but more slide producing wider arcs.
Having determined the swing we look at the design of the head part and belly, this will change the action too. Example: up tuned banana shape (easieset to walk the dog) and variations of the rocker (how much bend in the lower part) will affect how easily the lure can be worked.
The front end of the lure will determine how much wake (the v wave disturbance behind ur lure as u work it). Lure like LuckyCraft Sammy even has a small cup so the lure can spit some water depending on how u work it. Variations will be how wide the lower body part is, and the arc at the belly whether it flat, rounded or in between. It can even be a V depending on what u want ur lure to do. How the upper bend of the head and the ratio it relates to the bottom bend will also determine when u work the lure will it dive down or stay on the surface (depeding on how u work the lure too of course).
The line tie position of ur lure also effects the action a bit (the fine tuning part) having line tie higher or lower has the effect of when u pull on the lure how it’ll tilt the lure into horizontal to start the swing. Also it determines if ur lure will roll to its side or not & how much. Badly configured line tie position combined with bad weight placement can even make ur lure spin like a spinner. [:P]
So it is full of posssibilities for u when making a stick bait but basically stick to these few principles and u’ll have a working lure at least;
weight is bias towards the tail
head is usually out of water at rest
keep body carved vey symetry (left/right) so it will swing equally right & left
enough surface at the belly so it creates the resistant neccasary to make it swing (ie, not too narrow a body)
Of course to confuse u even more [:D} we can make sinking walk the dog lures as well [8D] Happy carving.
Here’s a lure I made a while ago which is pretty close to ur design for ur reference:
LaPala I weighted the lure at the tail and also one close to the belly hook. And it sits about 45deg. Will paint it soon. Thx for all the advice fellow forumers.
quincy,
one question, did u use sand paper to smoothen the surface? or you can apply a layer of epoxy before your base code, this will give u a smoother surface [:)]
back to the painting, i think it’s very good leh [:P]. in my oppinion, the effectiveness (clouration) of a top water lure rely on it belly’s colour. So i prefer silver or white, red and black. and i’ll put some reflective material (those use for art work) to represent the scale patterns [:D].
however, there are some pencil bait that are able to make a short dive under the water surface or have a big rolling action. in this situation, the side colouration will have some effect then.
and about your painting, i think it’s not as bad as you think lah [:D]. the fish will make the final judgement mah, no us human being [:P]
‘fierce’ coloration bro [8D]
agree w yeapwl - a coat of epoxy before paint work would also help ‘seal’ the lure from water entry n definatedly gives a smoother finish
Quincy,
Ganas..ganas.. try putting on the eyes. sometimes a little contrass will make it look good. Yello ke, silver ke.
U use paintbrush to paint aa? Looks like some drippings on the black colour. Use can spray laa.. A little tip, to make the red brighter, try paint the lure white first, let dry, n paint the red. Baru cantik!
Anyway, have u fieldtest it yet? Hows the action?
Sisik I fieldtest already, can walk the dog, I have just painted it another red, a brighter one. I no air brush lar so I use can spray only. I paint on the eyes already, now it looks very very ganas. Will post the pic tomorrow.