just completed this one
90mm, slow-sinking
Fun 2 Fish, Fish 4 Fun
Wah very nice, action how? Bila mau beli airbrush [:D][:D]
thls lp,
manage to keep the ‘head’ straight when retrive n the ‘tail’ makes a wide ‘s’ motion
still lloking for option to hide the joints
Fun 2 Fish, Fish 4 Fun
I think those hinges look great, as does the rest of the lure and it swims too!
There has been a recent discussion on TU regarding weighting of multi segment lures. Where did you add the ballast to yours, all in the front or distributed? Where in the front segment did you fit the weight? In the centre or towards the rear.
My preference is all the weight in the first segment positioned 2/3 length toward the rear, but there are many points of view, each backed up with working lures.
Congratulations.
vodkaman,
i weighted my first segment in the front 2/3 while each other segment has a small ballast at 1/3 from the front
the bait wld be slow sinking with nose down and slight ‘sideway swaying’
interesting that yr weight placement is totallty diff.
Fun 2 Fish, Fish 4 Fun
Mr Rap. Thanks for sharing the info. Interesting, but that is the way the TU discussion went. Many had differing ideas but all had working models, so I recon the design of the lipless hinged bait is quite forgiving. The only thing everyone agreed on is that if you put too much weight in the tail segments, the action would be killed or severely reduced. This is not necessarily a bad thing. We try to make baits with an exagerated motion, often way beyond the reality of a fish swimming!
The temptation is to include more ballast in the tail section in order to set the static angle of the bait. However, once the bait is moving, the bait will find its swimming equilibrium, depending largely on the eye location. I haven’t done a huge ammount of work on this type of bait. I got mine working and then moved on to single bodies (less labour intensive!). But I think nothing looks better in the water than a well made multi segment swimming a smoooooth ‘S’ pattern, being closed down by Mr Jaws!
my 2-sectioned jointed baits has the weights adjacent to the joints. i find that if the head is weighted, it tumbles during the cast and grabs my line…
one of the nicest swim actions from a jointed swimbait is from the AccelJeak Fyra. not the most good lookin lure but certainly has one of the best swims. u can view the video here:
http://swimbaitjunky.tspresents.com/tackle/fyra/fyra.html
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FiR3 TiG3R
[Team Longkang Gang]
U5 - Team LKG Master-Baiterz
http://longkanggang.blogspot.com/
Tig3r. You mentioned an important point. Very few lure designers consider ‘casting’ as a design parameter, either it casts or it doesn’t.
For casting, the ideal position for the ballast would be at the absolute rear of the bait, as it flies tail first through the air. If the majority of the ballast is in the front section, the tail folds forward and the lure flops around, catching every bit of wind resistance that it can. I can cast a simple 15g ‘S’ shaped spoon about 60m, a lipped bait, I would consider 35m a success.
So, what is the answer? Sorry, I don’t have one, just a few ideas. Best that I can say is that design is always a compromise. By shifting some ballast to the rear segment, gives the rear segment some momentum and significantly improves the cast, 10 - 20% I have experienced in casing efficiency. The trade off is that, the more weight in the tail, the less action (or wiggle) your bait will have.
I experimented with a hinged front lip, a shallow bait with a biggish 70 degree lip. The hinge allowed the lip to slip through the air and increased the casting distance by 25% (crank counting). The hinge was labour intensive and so I abandoned the idea. Now I am working on cranks with the lip formed as part of the body (no lip fitted). The idea being that the lip no longer sticks out, but is faired by the body blending out to the edges on the lip. I haven’t done casting tests on it yet, but I am optomistic.
A well design & weighted lure can cast the country mile with a fixed weight.
One lure I know off is a Skeeter bait with no sacrifice in action at all.
For me I like to play with weight shifting designs [:D]
Yes, shifting weight is probably the best of all solutions, can’t believe it slipped my mind. I appologise for the digression from the subject, a bad habit of mine!
Rap, you asked about hiding the joints. Looking at yours, I don’t think it is possible to hide them more than you already have, good job. The only hinge that would possibly improve, is to use a thread as the joint. Again, this option has been discussed on TU and there are one or two designers using this method with success. There are problems that have to be addressed with this method, such as glue management and sealing. If glue or epoxy penetrate the thread material, the hinge is useless, but it can be done with practise.
But looking at your hinge again, I think the thread hinge would not gain you anything.
speaking of hinges…wow…it’s been too long since i abandoned luremaking heheheheh…u guys really spreading the poison all over again!
back to the point.
i’ve previously experimented with canvas as a hinge. it’s from an old snake toy i had when i was a kid. looks something like this:
1stly, cut the lure into halves. then use any method u think is viable to reattach the halves with the canvas in between. the amount of flex in the lure is determined by the angle & distance of placement of the adjacent lure halves/sections.
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FiR3 TiG3R
[Team Longkang Gang]
U5 - Team LKG Master-Baiterz
http://longkanggang.blogspot.com/
hello all sifu…i need some help on how to epoxcy the jointed…cos when i put the elephant glue it stuck n my lure can’t wooble its tail..and where should i put the weight on this lure..
i’m making a swimbait lure…
this is from the bottom view…any suggestion where should i put the weight?
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Can’t tell you Where exactly to place the weights as there is too many variables involved.
Here’s a general guide:
Determine where you want to put your hooks 1st. Next figure out how u want your swimbait – floating, suspending or count down. Just tie/rubberband some weight to your lure that make it do that. After you have determined the amount of weight play with the distribution of the weight that will give you the altitude of the lure, floating/sinking head down or horizontal. Finally fine tune the weight distribution but moving it around a bit so it gives you the action that you are looking for. Note action will depend on other factors like lip shape, tow eye position, weight low or higher will also affect the stability and roll of a lure.
allo bro…
saya nak tanya sikit…kenapa gam dua tan jadi kuning bila kering…pastu lembut…dah jadi macam soft bait la pulak…kenapa erk???
PER</font id=“red”>EGR</font id=“yellow”>INE</font id=“green”>
quote:
Originally posted by peregrine
allo bro..... saya nak tanya sikit...kenapa gam dua tan jadi kuning bila kering.....pastu lembut.....dah jadi macam soft bait la pulak.....kenapa erk????PER</font id=“red”>EGR</font id=“yellow”>INE</font id=“green”>
- u pakai yg 5-min kot?
- lu pakai apa brand?
- make sure it’s written as CLEAR epoxy…sbab ada yg kaler YELLOWISH/AMBER
- u silap nisbah campuran…sbab tu jadi lembut. nak jitu, guna syringe supaya 100% campuran u perfect
