quote:If you can find tungsten balls let me know . Even tungsten rods be cool.
What do you want to know about weight transfer?? Post ur questions in a new thread.
Just wonder how do you guys do it???Sliding weight lock with magnet like Zipbait or Daiwa S-GOS System or rolling steel ball with tungsten ball lock with magnet or rolling steel ball/tungsten ball that will lock in the slope to prevent it rolling around after casting.
I am tinkering with this idea recently so that i can build my minnow that can cast like a dream without wobbling in the air.I am more towards the rolling ball lock with magnet because i have less space to play with the shaft that the weight sliding on,the flat plane make me think that its hard for the weight to slide back for locking ,even with the lure tilt nose down,unless it tilt really in steep angle.
My idea is that i want to put an alluminium tube,a bit steep angle in the lure body,the tungsten ball or weight can roll freely inside the tube,less effort to make them roll back to the locking place and lock with magnet.The downside is it very hard to source for these tungsten ball.Lead is a no no,too soft and can deform after sometimes.The other alternative is a steel ball bearing.The tungsten ball that i possessed
now is the one that i pry out of one lure just to see how big is the ball and what kind of magnet that they re using.The magnet can easily be source.
RJ,
try this…shape a groove in ur lure. the belly part of groove is lower than the tail end…so that on the cast the ball will be thrown back, and on the crank it will slide to the belly…simple no?
Thanx for the response FT bro…that is what i thought of before…but since my carving hand is not that good thats why i think of the alluminum tube/chamber.Roughly its still the same idea/concept,but i can just do rough carving to install the whole unit and get a better smooth rolling surface for the ball to roll.I use balsa for most of my lure…easy to carve but also easy to over carve…fragile too…but i think its more easy to shape. i think jelutong is more better,but cant get them over here so far.I’ll post the photo of the tube and balls+magnet when i can get the tube…maybe tomorrow.
Dang thats neat…thats gonna be easier than gouging a 2 pcs …never thought of 3 pcs before…Thanx a lots LP…gonna give it a go and post the pic later.Cheeerrsss…
3 tungsten ball,1 steel ball,1 magnet and an alluminum tubing.
unit possition.
The design is still more or less like FT bro suggestion…but i am not confident to gouge the body and make the chamber smooth and symmetrical which i am afraid will effect the ballast.The ball and tubing only have a little clearance so it wont roll around too much and create the unstable ballast.After sealing and floating test,theres another weight that i plan to implant somewhere near the head.
Over all the system produce a little bit of noise and rattle even in lock up position.
Btw i think the design post by LP bro is more cool…gonna try that next.
the reason it makes little noise is because the clearance of the balls n tubings too narrow. try using smaller weights.
yes, the design lapala showed is much easier to make. but carving the two sideplates is the problem! hahhaa…too thin for my fatty finger’s liking…hehehhe. another problem is if u put too much epoxy on the sideplates when attaching to the mid section, u might get some excess epoxy into the rattling chamber…thus hampering the rattle.
make a tiny groove around the rattle chamber
apply epoxy on side plate up to right before groove line
will stop the overflow of expoxy into rattle chamber
Few minnow that i am working on recently.Thanks a lot to Lapala for the idea.All construct from a basswood strip(1/8 inch thick),4 piece.
The chin slot purposely make to accommodate lip/bib wch will be fix with screw so that its changeable.Make live easier on swimming trial.I plan to use bend 2mm thick acrylics plate as a bib/lip.
Joe there is very little material left near the front most hook eye, kena one 6kg siakap you die hahahaa.
Anyway nice construction. You might want to put a fixed weight near the chin too else all bearing move to the back, ur minnow will will hit water and stand straight, lip out of water. Weight balancer should be part of the traveling weight but u’ll still need a little to balance it some upon water entry the weight will move forward automatically.
LP bro…thanx for the comment…yeah…i spare the space under the slot to drill for the fix ballast already…only have to coat first for ballast test to determine how heavy the ballast that it need.What concern me now is i must make a few lip/bib with different size shape and angle bent and give it a go…only problem is to guess the right size so i dont need to do so many bib.
Btw…the got my prototype go wrong before…so had to pry open to get the balls back…try pulling the belly eye with plier so it will pry open in half…surprise me how strong the properly epoxies joint and sealed wood lure can be.The eye strong and frame strong enuff since it enforce by the other strip from both side.For seabass that we targeted here i think more than enuff…5-6 kg siakap oso i think still can…but i am doubted if got strike from mama toman.cheeerrrsss…
