I have been browsing on Ebay for fishing reels and come across an offer of 3nos Okuma Graphite fly reels for US51/RM184. They are rated no.9 or no.10. I thought it was a bargain especially can be used for saltwater fishing.
My question is can no.9 or 10 fly reels be matched with no.7 or 5 lines and rods? Does it matter to match the same rating for reel, lines and rod? What are the effects if we mismatch them? Mr.Nick Ooi, if you read this can you comment?
Thanks
hi SH,
nick & gang just finished their fly-clinic in penang about 6pm just now. they should still be hanging out for dinner till late!
just to share. from my limited time fly-fishing, i’ve learnt some things as i moved on. balance is of utmost importance.
using too light a reel–> tip heavy
using too heavy a reel–> butt heavy
both conditions put unnecessary strain on the wrist. fatique sets in prematurely as u cast.
not all same numbered reels weigh the same. say, a wt 4/5 reel from manufacturer A may differ from another wt 4/5 reel from manufacturer B.
materials: graphite, alumninium(machined, cast or cold-forged) & carbon-fibre reels all differ in weight.
basically, what i’m trying to say is, to get the best-feeling setup, u gotta try different setups to get a feel of it.
similarly, a wt 5 sage Z-axis would feel much different compared to a say, wt 5 TFO TiCR-X rod. so, a reel that balances the sage rod might not balance the TFO.
another thing is whether u are accustomed to the whole setup or not. i’ve known some fishers who had been using their old setup for years and wouln’t change any one bit for it, as they are comfortable with the whole setup & feel.
i’ve had my fair share of experimenting as well. my heavier Ultegra 5/6 was paired with a 4wt rod, and was butt-heavy ( i needed the larger reel coz i wanted 200+ meters of backing). i’ve been using that setup for more than a year before i switched to a lighter reel. initially had some adjustment problems but then slowly things took a turn for the better. later on, i acquired a wt 7 rod, but did not buy a matching reel. still used the same 5/6 reel on it, but this time it was tip heavy instead. but after using it for 6 months, i got used to it.
there is no hard rule that the reel must be in similar number as the rod, but generally, it gives an idea of how much line it can store(for the intended wt of the rod), and as a balancer.
as for the lines, i sometimes over-test the weightage by a digit, especially if it’s a stiffer rod. gets the job done, but accuracy is sacrificed. better to stick with same number as the rod i guess? [:D]
just speaking out my mind based on my little experience, hope to learn from the rest, bust some myths about FF & kill some urban legends with regards to fly-fishing.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v324/FYRTYGR/FTlogo.jpg[/IMG]http://longkanggang.blogspot.com/
WAR: it’s not about who’s RIGHT, it’s about who’s LEFT
Thanks Fir3, thats quite an explanation. Last time i bought a Sierra #7 from Nick and i matched it with a Tica aluminum not sure the number, and a #7 floating line. Man, it was quiet tiring after a few casts, i think it was butt heavy, you are right.
Actually i am thinking to get a #5 set which is good enough for small streams and pond. From your experience, is a 7 footer better than 9footer? Nine footer can cast longer but troublesome in heavy vegetation area isnt it?
Do you think in malaysian stream/rapids, floating line with dry flies works better or medium sink with wet flies if i am targeting Tengas and Sebarau?
Thanks for your input.
for small streams & watergates(terusan), i use a 7 footer. easier to handle, especially when distance is not too much of a factor.
can’t answer regarding the lines for tengas/sebaraus…NOT YET CAUGHT ON FLY LA BRO
hahhahah
c’mon fellow flyers, chip in lah!
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v324/FYRTYGR/FTlogo.jpg[/IMG]http://longkanggang.blogspot.com/
WAR: it’s not about who’s RIGHT, it’s about who’s LEFT
Hi
A wt5 and below would be wonderful for stream work and much lighter on the hand too.If the stream is shallow Tengas and Sikang will readilly take Dry fly,s on a floating line.But if the streams deeper or the flow is faster, than an intermediate or sometimes even a fast sinking line with a nymph at the end will do the job better.
nick ooi
a 3wt or 4wt would be nice for tengas. nymph works well for tengas. but if u have red colour nymphs would be much more effective.
Thanks Nick, looks like i have to visit your shop and get myself the 5wt set soon.
oh one more thing, should we put a small white indicator like a white foam about 2 ft from the fly so we can see the strike? In a fast stream where the fly is sinking up and down violently, we might not realise the fly already inside the fish mouth. What do you think?
My opinion is that there is no one standard rating for the tackle that each of us choose. To match the condition we fish, each anglers ‘feel’ with the fly outfit is very important.
Coming back to your question, the reels are may bee too heavy and will create an imbalance when you cast. This will cause fatigue when casting. You also want to consider the rod to be very light. The new Orvis helios are great rods, very light, and suitable for many freshwater species.
The most important thing, is that you have to throw a few cast in the fly shop or really know the physical specs of the things you mentioned. Otherwise, you may regret in purchasing them.
On the other hand, I would invest more money in rod than the reel, (for fly fishing). The return for a good rod will prove itself in many situation. Just my two cents, hope this helps… 
Does it matter to have floating or intermediate or sinking line because the 9’ tappet line which is made of mono will sink anyway along with the flies?
Depending what you are catching. What are you catching?
For example, I use #10 floating for tuna’s and dorados, and they are usually on the surface. So, floating is ideal for me. If you are fishing on flats after bonefish (depending on situation) intermediate or sinking line would be recommended. Get the picture?
quote:
Originally posted by Snook Hunter
Does it matter to have floating or intermediate or sinking line because the 9' tappet line which is made of mono will sink anyway along with the flies?
Chuanjek,
I can understand on the Eldorado case where you dont want the line and flies to sink too deep, but when you are in say 3 ft of water fishing for Tengas, or Sebarau, the tappet line and fly will sink (unless dry fly) within 3 ft depth, so the fly line can be anything isnt it? because the first 9’ tappet only matters and i assume the fish wont see the fly line beyond that, isnt it?
From what you describe, I would say yes, less than 3 ft of water the tippet line will sink, but success rate will depends on what the fish is feeding at that time. In situation such as this, I would usually use floating line only, because it will allow you to see the line moving when a fish strike. From what I understand is that using nymph and dry flies will depend on the hatching (insects) at that time when you are fishing. Remember there are 4 stages for insects (egg, early nymph, late nymph and adult). Try to find out the season for these cycles in the water column you are fishing.
Though, I have to apologize, I am not very familiar with ‘tengas’ or ‘sebarau’ fishing. Hope this helps
Chuanjek,
wow! How do we found out the cycle time of particular flies at the particular place? Looks like we have to carry an assortment that covers the whole stage of various fly then? So we have to recce first lah before casting the right flies.
That is the fun part! You have to find your way to investigate what those bugs are…
Before going to your spot, check out first, and then bring the appropriate flies. Or, better yet, bring your vice and other related fly tying materials. You can clamp your vice on your booth of your car. Although I have to say maybe that is a little extreme, perhaps the better way if you want to catch fish. Otherwise, you will actually waste time casting the wrong flies where the fishes are not interested in them.
Are there any fly fishing clubs around where you live? It can be a good start to ask fellow fly fisherman’s there. Even information online will give you extensive resources. If all fails, then go to your spot & find out yourself. Use a little trap-net to capture small minnows or insects. Record the time, temperature and use your judgment .
quote:
Originally posted by Snook Hunter
Chuanjek,wow! How do we found out the cycle time of particular flies at the particular place? Looks like we have to carry an assortment that covers the whole stage of various fly then? So we have to recce first lah before casting the right flies.
quote:
Originally posted by Snook Hunter
oh one more thing, should we put a small white indicator like a white foam about 2 ft from the fly so we can see the strike? In a fast stream where the fly is sinking up and down violently, we might not realise the fly already inside the fish mouth. What do you think?
bro, there are different types of coloured shrink tube. u just put it at the front loop as ur indicator. no need to put foam or anything. n if u wanna prevent ur leader n tipet to float properly, u can use the floatant which nick sells or u can use vaseline.
quote:
Originally posted by Snook Hunter
Chuanjek,wow! How do we found out the cycle time of particular flies at the particular place? Looks like we have to carry an assortment that covers the whole stage of various fly then? So we have to recce first lah before casting the right flies.
bro, normally i will bring various types of flies n try. u can oso do some look see look see research on wat the fishes in the particular spots r feeding to be more productive. well in penang, places dat i fish at, the fishes r not really dat picky. so most of the time same flies all the time. for brakish rivers, i only use chart and white colour.