Hi Guys,
Sorry if I publish the same topic. Anyway, I need to know, what is the length for shock leader to be tie to braided mainline? Some say short, some say long.. Normally I will use mono line for baitcasting, as I found it more easy to cast then using braided line (maybe I am noob ^^)..
Let me describe my understanding and issues I face. We use braided line is because of the thin diameter, zero memory, sensitivity and “accuracy” (I have no idea the fact is true or not, but I heard some say yes ^^).
Then back to the shock leader. We use it because, we afraid the zero memory braided line will snap if suddenly the fish decide to snatch your lure. Since braided line cannot absorb the impact, shock leader is connect with main line to prevent line breakage… (got spring -spring ma ^^)..
Ok, clear my lousy definition… (lolxxx). So, I connect the shock leader with my braided mainline.. Suddenly, problem… If the shock leader is too long, what is the purpose of the braided line?? Since using braided is to increase sensitivity, long shock leader will ruin the concept right? Quite often, we will never cast very far (except your’re surf caster, then I understand you need long shock leader).
If too short, not enough “spring-spring pulak”… Dilema.. Now becomes like this in my head:
- Too long - wrong concept, since you need the braided line feel. Worse of all, fish eat you also dono (sometimes ^^)
- Too short - no spring-spring, kena big fish, BOOMMMMM!!.. Line snap.
- Don want s.leader - Same thing, BOOMMM!!.. Tali putus..
- Direct mono - Low poundage is required, since I use LPBC.. Scared
putus also.. Cannot control..
Hope I “make” you guys blurrrrrrrrrrrrrr… Cheers~~
Born to Cast,
Live to Fish,
Force to Work.
Hooi bro,
just tie it the longest u go would be from the tip of ur rod to the front of ur reel. it’s the best so far i;ve tried. Nvr tie longer than the leader entering the reel itself, always keep it a distance away from the line guide. Reason are easier to cast n wont knock on the guide, which will hamper the casting ability. Tat’s wat i normally do… sensitivity, manageability and abrasion resistance all balance up.
But bear in mind u no need to keep tat length throughout the day(crazy meh keep changing n tying leader LOL), even 1 foot of leader will do its job just fine depending of where u fish only. but best so far i’ve tried is wat i mentioned above
braid for accuracy? not sure… probably cos its lighter n thinner so easier to control campared to mono of the same poundage. But in reality, mono with it’s smooth surface actually cast longer n better, but i dun use mono. the rest of wat u said are correct.
i tie fluoro leader in front cos i dun wan abrasion on the expensive braid. It’s more of a sacrificial stuff for me than anything else la, maybe for added stealth or shock resistance like u said, but even without it i still can catch fish. just tat using braid without leader advisable to lower ur reel’s drag so the pressure on the knot is not so high to snap it
tat’s it… hope u find it helpful.
I only have 13 years of fishing experience, so must beri tunjuk ajar!
Hi Bro TJS, thanks for the good info. Shall try my own later. Your correct about mono, which can cast further. I have seen Japan bass kaki using only mono for casting. But not so sure if all of them using it.. Anyway, cheers ~~
Born to Cast,
Live to Fish,
Force to Work.
Hooi,
Long before PE became popular and cheep enough to use, we used mono for casting. [:D][:D][:D]
I still have a bunch of my reels filled with straight mono.
With PE, I usually have a short leader in front, basically to ensure that the final knot to the terminal tackle is strong and like TJS, i don’t sakit hati cutting off the PE line with it gets worn.
[:D]
Hehehehhee… Me too me too.. I thought I am d Alien here.. Hahahaha… Cheers~~
Born to Cast,
Live to Fish,
Force to Work.